If you’re planning a Belize adventure, you may find the most expensive part of getting around this northeastern tip of Central America is, well, getting around. Renting a foreign car or cramming into a puddle jumper plane can run hundreds of dollars and require extensive planning. Looking to un-plan your trip? Try the bus. 

The bus terminal in Belize City.

Belizean buses will look very familiar to the American eye, as they tend to be former American school buses repainted in tropical colors. A mere $10 can take you from one end of the country to another—revealing a rustic panorama that you won’t find via any other mode of transport.

I entered the bus terminal at Belize City with no schedule and no route; only a vague idea of traveling southeast to Placencia (known for its offshore coral reefs that make for spectacular snorkeling & scuba diving), and then west to the Guatemala border in quest of Mayan sites on the other side.

I missed the first bus, but had to wait only 20 minutes for the next one. Given the terminal is loosely organized with few employees on hand, locals are happy to point you to the right place—but know some might ask for a tip!

On board, the journey southward is a lush feast for the eyes, a breathtaking reel of rolling hills and rivers, exotic animals, old-time churches and brightly colored farmhouses. Unless you opt for an express bus (which costs a bit more), there will be frequent stops not on the schedule, as drivers pick up and drop off the locals most anywhere they ask.

The buses themselves have no indoor plumbing; luggage is stored in the back where you would expect to find a stall. The depots do provide restrooms but expect to pay between 50 cents to one U.S. dollar for the privilege.

A bus-ride view while criss-crossing the Belizean countryside.

Note that both U.S. dollars and Belize dollars are accepted currency. Formerly British Honduras, Belize is the only country in its region with English as the official language. You could therefore structure a Central American trip comfortably speaking English and paying U.S. dollars—as long as you stay in Belize! Whichever currency you choose, bring small bills, for the restroom facilities and for buying drinks and snacks from the small children who frequently hop on buses to hawk their wares.

After a 15-minute layover in Belmopan—nearly every major bus route to points south goes through this central capital city—the bus continued on the final stretch to Placencia.

A sticky situation arose when two female passengers got into a tussle, and one even pulled a knife, but a uniformed police officer on board quickly broke it up. The bus never stopped moving.

True to form, the driver dropped me off along the Placencia Road at my request, where a taxi was waiting to take me to the rental property I reserved. Consider that I paid the taxi driver the same amount as I did for the five-hour bus trek from Belize City!

With so much eye candy along the way, I never once felt the need to plug in my headphones—the perfect bridge between the crowded, gritty streets of urban Belize and the sleepy charm of its oceanfront towns. Even without air conditioning, the bus offered a cool breeze with the windows rolled down that broke up what had been a couple of scorching May days in the subtropics.

Memo to border crossers: if you’re looking to get to Guatemala and soak in the majesty of the Mayan empire in Tikal, or the island charm of nearby Flores, Belizean buses can take you to the border too. Don’t forget your passport!

Línea Dorada runs to and from Chetumal in Belize to Flores, Guatemala. A longer version of this blog co-written with Holly Edgell appears on the Matador Network.